String or hair algae is a very common form of algae that occurs in most ponds and the growth rate is related to nutrient load, and other factors, within the pond (high nutrients=high growth rate, low nutrients=low growth rate). These types of algae growth can actually be expected in the Northeast area in the early spring and late fall, and are completely normal. The goal is to not to have this type of growth occurring at other time of the year as it can be very unsightly and difficult to control. The blooms that occur in the spring and fall will usually clear up on their own, but for those times of year that these growths happen there are various treatments that can be applied to the pond that help to control and clear these growths. The products that are available are pretty numerous and some work, some don’t. On the FSA website there is a page that lists our “Preferred Water Treatments” and suggests products that we have found to work very well.

The BEST method of all types of algae control is the use of aquatic plants in the pond. Algae is a very basic plant and without any type of competition from more complex plants such as lilies, iris, and the numerous other aquatic plants available to pond keepers; algae will run amuck in any pond system. Provide more plants to compete for the algae’s food source and the algae will starve and die off naturally, without the use of treatments or chemicals, at the same time beautifying your pond, creating habitat, and attracting desirable wildlife.

The basics of keeping your filters clean help very much in algae control of all types of algae. Ultraviolet filtration does NOTHING to help control string algae.

There are some types of fish that can do a very good job at algae control as well, one of them being the “Chinese high-fin shark”, it is not Chinese and not a shark of course, and will live in peace with your pond fish; they do a great job at eating algae and scraping the rockwork. The Chinese shark is cold hardy as well and can survive the winters. I have seen people use some of the tropical algae eating fish such as plecostomus to help in algae control and they certainly help as well, but the trick is to get them out of the pond before the cold weather sets in as they will NOT handle the winter months and need to be moved indoors for the winter.

I like to use a combination of all methods. I use plenty of aquatic plants along with the treatments that are available, and make sure that my filter pads are cleaned regularly. The treatments are used more as a preventative about once a month whether I have string algae or not. When it comes time for you to do your treatment, try to remove as much of the unwanted algae growth as possible, by hand, then apply your treatments. After you have done the treatment it is good practice to give a very good cleaning to your filter pads soon after, as most treatments breakup the algae and it will ultimately end up in your filter material.

ond lighting is an often overlooked consideration for people in the planning process of a pond installation project. Pond lighting is often added afterwards or cut out of the plan to “save money” which, as a pond designer, I feel is a mistake to treat pond lighting in “that light”. Pond lighting both submersible and exterior adds a dimension to pond keeping that can only be appreciated by seeing it. A well lighted pond installation is quite a sight to behold during the evening hours. Highlighting the waterfalls, stream, rockwork, and other design elements of your pondscape add another level of enjoyment to your pond that cannot be experienced during daylight hours. In my own opinion I can attest that some of the real “wow” factor of my pond and pond installations that I have built and seen have occurred at night. The reflection of water rippling, the behavior of pond fish by the lights is incredibly interesting. People ask if pond lighting might bother or interrupt the fish which it does not. To the contrary from my observations the fish seem to actually enjoy the lighting and can be seen circling in front of lighted areas. Highlighting the aquatic plants within the pond installation also has a beautiful and often stunning presentation to the pond viewer. Everyone knows how beautiful and what a difference landscape lighting can make to a landscape, the same goes for the pondscape that has been creatively lit. So, why else would you want to install pond lighting to your water garden installation? Well, let me tell you; since the obvious argument of beautification has been told. How about the simple idea of extending your hours of enjoyment with your pond installation, why should it stop at sunset? Many, if not most, of us work long hours and do not get home until natural light is gone or waning, lighting your pond will give you the enjoyment you were seeking from your pond installation at the times that are convenient to you. There are many types of lighting systems available for the pond owner to consider, from affordable low-voltage halogen to LED lighting, or high-end fiber-optic lighting systems that change color or solar lighting systems, all have the up-sides and down-sides and we have installed and experienced them all so do not hesitate..pick up the phone or email FULL SERVICE AQUATICS now to talk about pond lighting with one of our knowledgeable NJ pond installation technicians.

Green water is usually a condition within the pond water’s chemistry that is out of balance, typically caused by nitrates. The good news is that green water is not harmful to fish, but it looks terrible. A quick fix for green water is to use a pond sterilizer to clear the water, the long term fix is to ensure proper filtration is installed; feeding habits are kept in check, and a good mix of pond plants are in your water garden. For further discussion please give us a call.

Most of us live our lives trying to avoid bacteria and situations that may expose us to bacteria, and here I am telling how important it is to add bacteria to your pond and aquarium installations! Now stay with me because I am not suggesting that you expose yourself to anything that would have a negative impact, the bacteria I am recommending is “beneficial bacteria” (or microbes); a bacterial strain that will have a positive impact on your aquatic environment whether it be an aquarium installation, backyard pond installation, or large natural ponds. The bacteria we are speaking of occur naturally, but not always in the quantities and concentrations that we are hoping for; so we supplement our aquatic environments by adding bacteria directly. Beneficial bacteria plays a major role in the breakdown of organics and nutrients that build up in ponds, lakes, and aquaria. Without the activity of beneficial bacteria our ponds would never be more than a pool of green water and overgrown algae, with the addition of beneficial bacteria to our pond installations, aquarium installations, or natural ponds and lakes we are creating a stable, clean, clear biotope for the inhabitants of the environment and YOU!

Beneficial bacteria/microbes are produced by a manufacturer through a fermentation process and offered on the open market where companies can buy the bacteria and create their own blends or simply repackage them for sale. Quality and potency of the microbial blends depend on the manufacturer and their “recipe”, part of my job at FSA is to shop the different products and direct our customers to the highest quality bacteria blend that is available for them to use; as with any product there are many bacteria blends that are full of fillers or have a very low bacteria concentration. The higher the bacteria count in the pond installation or aquarium installation, the higher your water quality will be. Some scientists have also proven that the use of beneficial bacteria can also eliminate bad bacteria like salmonella found in captive turtle environments.

Our recommended blend of bacteria treatments for our customers to use, have a blend of Heterotrophic Bacteria and Lithotrophic Bacteria strains. Heterotrophic bacteria are responsible for the reduction and decomposition of organics like pond sludge. Lithotrophic bacteria (nitrosomonas and nitrobacter) are vital in the active removal of ammonia and nitrite. Consistent use of these beneficial bacteria treatments will ensure a clean, clear, and efficiently functioning aquatic system.

After the decision to install a pond, water garden, waterfall, or water feature has been made the next decision is where to install it. In much of the old pond literature a common recommendation is to place a pond in the corner of a yard or in areas that are difficult to landscape. That psyche still pops up in today’s customers as well, and I try to talk them out of that concept unless it truly is the best place for your pond installation.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION ….in College this was presented to us as the most important factor that contributed to the success of any business, I think the same principle can be applied to pond location. What if we build you the most beautiful pond ever built, but it is tucked away neatly in the corner of your yard? Every time you want to show it off, every time you want to feed your fish, or relax by your pond you have to take a walk to get to your pond and that can get old real quick.

I always suggest locating your pond or waterfall installation close to the home, preferably near your outdoor living area and with views from the inside of the house as well, which will allow winter viewing from the comfort of your home interior. The close location to your outdoor living area will give you an intimate experience with your pond allowing you to see and hear the waterfalls, fish, and wildlife as well as easy feeding of your koi or pond fish. Based on the filter systems that we install it is not a huge factor whether the pond is in full sun or full shade, but the amount of light the pond receives will be a factor in the type of aquatic plants that will succeed in your water garden installation.

Generally, one of the benefits of the closer location will also be easier access to electrical and water sources as well, allowing easy connections for the pump and lighting, and for topping off the pond water. If you have kids or pets, it will allow you to keep an eye on them while they enjoy the natural habitat of fish, plants, birds, frogs, dragonflies, and other wildlife; you have created in your backyard oasis.

If you are concerned about the close location cutting of access to the rest of your yard then allow us to install a bridge of wood or stone, or stepping stones through the pond, or we can simply set up a system that will allow you to even grow grass over an area you’d like to keep as access.

Even though the great majority of professional pond installations in NJ and elsewhere are put into backyards, do not discount the “curb appeal” of locating your professionally installed water features in your front yard, but again keep it close to the house so it is not only your neighbors or those driving by who get to enjoy your beautiful pond, water garden, waterfalls, or water feature!

So, as the old professor’s mantra of LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION went; they were right, let’s just apply it to your water garden installation. Keep it close to your home; and keep it close to your heart.

Biohaven floating islands are a man-made product that mimics naturally occurring floating islands found in many of the world’s freshwater lakes, including right here in the United States in Wisconsin. The result is a natural way to improve water quality by filtering pollutants, floating particles/sediment, and nutrients in a highly efficient manner. BIOMIMICRY, the process of understanding and using biological principles to solve human problems, is where the concept and design of floating island biohaven comes from.

The islands are built of recycled polyester called MATRIX. Layers of matrix are bound together and floated using polyurethane foam. The islands are normally covered with biomix and planted with wetland plants; eventually allowing the root systems of the plants to grow through the matrix into the water below. The matrix and root system of the wetland plants provide an enormous amount of surface area that is colonized by beneficial bacteria/microbes. Both the vegetation and the bacteria are able to utilize nutrients in the water column, reducing the nutrient load that would otherwise be available for undesirable organisms like algae.

Floating island biohavens also provide the added benefit of creating habitat for wildlife such as waterfowl, aquatic insects, fish, and other plants. They represent an important tool to increase biodiversity within our pond systems.

Biohavens, large scale and small scale, have been launched around the world successfully to address nutrient issues in many different pond environments including: stormwater ponds, waste water lagoons, zoos, golf courses, and ornamental ponds.

Maintenance?....no maintenance!! Well, before I get in trouble allow me to backtrack to say EVERYTHING requires maintenance, but in the case of floating island biohavens I prefer to refer to it as a “stewardship” because the amount of maintenance is up to you and up to how you choose to employ the floating island biohaven. I prefer the term stewardship because it is really a matter of checking on your island from time to time and, if you choose, you can make whatever changes to the island you elect to do. The most successful islands tend to be those that are just left alone to naturalize and become more efficient at the reduction of nutrients and pollutants in the water.

However, in the event that you have a island design that requires a little more TLC the islands can be brought to shore on the edge of your pond for whatever type of work you intend to do on it.

There is no definite answer to that question as most constructed pond owners have and expect something different from their respective ponds. Also, most ponds are built with varying depths. When it comes to wintering fish, in the New Jersey area and most other parts of the country, a depth of 18” should allow the pond owner a worry free winter season keeping their fish outdoors, however the FULL SERVICE AQUATICS typical installations go to a depth of 24” – 30”. At this depth range our customers have NO problems keeping their fish outdoors for all seasons. For water gardening purposes depths of 6”, for shallow water plants, to 24” for deeper water plants will suit most water gardeners just fine, also allowing the hardier plants to winter over outdoors without any problems. Something to consider… most municipalities will consider a body of water 36” or greater in depth, regardless of length and width dimensions, an insurance liability; and will require permits, insurance, and fencing to be installed with the pond even though it is not used for human immersion or recreational purposes.

To salt or not to salt…. This is a seemingly endless debate in the field of pond/fish keeping. However on my part there is no debate, I have come to my conclusion as a professional aquarist of 25+ years, a professional pond installer of 15+ years, a professional water gardener of 12+ years. Unless it is being used very specifically and purposefully as a therapeutic treatment for fish…. NO SALT, that’s right, NO SALT. I came to realize this on my own but I do not want you to take my word for it, take the words of several of the top koi and fish veterinarians in the country. I recently attended the University Of Georgia School Of Veterinary Sciences. The panel of koi veterinarians that came in from across the country all agreed that salt should not be added to pond water UNLESS it is being used specifically as a therapeutic treatment. Koi, goldfish, orfes, mosquito fish; all are very popular for use in ponds, but NONE of them come from salty waters or brackish conditions. Elevated salt levels are not good for pond plants either and will cause burn out, wilt, and browning; if not outright death. This salt myth has been circulating for some time in the aquarium trade as well and is little by little being dispelled. It is a lengthy topic that I would be happy to discuss by phone in much greated depth, but the short of it is……………NO SALT, save it for the ocean.

Here is another major debate. Rockwork or no rockwork? To get right to the point all the benefits of using rock work are much too lengthy to list here and the downsides of not using rockwork are just as lengthy. I feel and deeply believe that any pond builder or keeper who advises not to use rockwork has an awful lot to learn about pond keeping! A quick list of benefits to rockwork is: a much more natural and aesthetically pleasing look to your pond, it creates a ballast for your liner keeping it in place after heavy rains, it protects and extends the life of your liner, rockwork insulates your pond keeping it cooler for your coldwater fish and plants, rockwork provides footing in the event that you have to enter your pond for any reason, rockwork and gravel allow the sediments that occur in ALL pond water to settle out and not stay suspended in your pond which results in clearer water and less maintenance, rockwork creates numerous nooks and crannies to aid in the reproduction of fish in your pond allowing areas of safety for each stage of development of your growing baby fish, rockwork and especially gravel provides a tremendous amount of biological filtration for your pond resulting in higher water quality, healthier fish, and cleaner clearer water. I see many ponds on a daily basis, of all types of construction and the ponds I come across that are built with exposed liners are consistently dirtier, cloudier, suffer from poor water quality, poor to no fish reproduction. I have never had a customer that has switched over to rockwork in their pond after owning an exposed liner pond regret their decision. I will not build a pond any other way than to have plenty of rockwork gracing the interior of the pond. You should not either!

In New Jersey pond installations, or the Mid-Atlantic and New England area, there is not a bad time of year to install a pond because it is a permanent installation. At FSA&L pond construction happens as long as we can break ground. FSA&L pond installations can go into December and pond construction in New Jersey starts again in late February. Many people think that a backyard pond installation must be during the spring time, although a popular time, it is not the only time to install a pond in New Jersey. All new pond construction will need about an eight week period after installation to truly become biologically active, meaning; they can start to break down some of the nutrients that build up in the water on their own through natural processes. There is a bad time to introduce pond fish and aquatic plants and that is November thru March. The recommended pond fish and aquatic plant season is April thru October.

Finally, you have your new pond. The water is crystal clear, the rockwork is spotless, and the algae, debris, and sludge are nowhere to be seen. Awesome! Now what?

A new pond, or a pond that is under 10 weeks old, behaves differently that an established pond. For new pond installations, aquatic plants can be introduced immediately. When it comes to adding fish it is best to let the pond run for several days before adding fish. This time period allows the water to mix, dechlorinate, and oxygenate; it also gives time for the pond owner to ensure that the system equipment is functioning properly and the entire install is free from leaks.

Although most installations performed by FULL SERVICE AQUATICS will go through the aging process without any complications the pond owner should be aware of certain conditions that may occur within the first 8-10 weeks.

Green water. WHAT!! Yes, green water may occur at about the 3 week mark and again at about the 8 week mark. First, green water is not toxic or harmful to fish so do not worry for your fish. The green water phase is a completely normal and temporary condition and pond owners should expect to see this condition. Green water can happen very suddenly so do not be surprised if your pond greens overnight. In an optimistic point of view the green water suggests that your pond installation is doing exactly what it is supposed to be doing. Clearing the green water can be done by giving a heavy dose of beneficial pond bacteria along with a dosage of pond water flocculant or clarifier. After 10 weeks you should be able to consistently expect clear water with a pond installation by FSA.

• After the first heavy rainfall your pond installation will get a cloudy or milky appearance or even a temporary green tinge, this temporary condition occurs because of excess debris or dust washing off the rockwork into your pond water. Let your pond filter system filter the particles out or add some flocculant.
• After about 4 weeks the first signs of algae growth on your rockwork should start to appear in sunnier or shadier locations this could happen sooner or later. A slight green or “rusty” looking coating will appear on the rockwork. This is a normal condition and will slow growth as your other pond plants start absorbing nutrients from the water effectively “starving out” the algae.
• At about 3-4 days your pond skimmer mat will need to have a good rinsing, again at about 3 weeks, after that clean as needed.
• All new pond owners should take their time in introducing fish/koi to their ponds, do not try to stock a new pond all at one time YOU WILL BE ASKING FOR PROBLEMS.
• Learn what type of plants you have and how to take care of them so new plants do not have to be purchased each year.
• Learn how to feed your fish/koi and take care of them.
• After 8-10 weeks most pond owners can expect consistent behavior from their new pond installation by way of non-fluctuating water quality and algae growth; and can start enjoying their pond more as an established pond. For more information review our other FAQ’s, watch all of our pond videos, call one of our on-staff pond professionals for an on-site consultation for your pond, or sign up for our pond maintenance program.

Now if this is not a loaded question I don’t know what is………

Working in this industry for 15+ years I have heard this question many times. Pond scum is a generic term that most of the time is referring to floating algae that forms a “scum” on the surface of the pond. There are several forms of floating algae and the solution for quick removal is manual removal by using a skimming net or removing by hand. Skim the pond and, wah-lah, the pond scum is gone (until it grows back)! There are also many chemicals and treatments that can be found that “remove” pond scum, however I do not recommend those methods as they do not really solve the problem and each treatment usually is costly and needs other treatments as follow ups, which turn your pond into a chemistry set instead of a passive leisure activity.

So then, how do we get rid of pond scum/floating algae? …FILTRATION. Ponds that grow excessive algae, whether floating or submerged, are suffering from underfiltration which in turn creates a large organic load. The organics are a food source for algae, so the challenge is to create a balance in the pond where organics are consumed at the same rate that they build. This can be accomplished by adding or upgrading filtration and adding plants to the pond. The increased filtration will break down nutrients quicker and more efficiently and the plants will consume the nutrients and “starve out” the algae by using up the algae’s food source. As your pond becomes more efficient at removing the nutrients the pond scum/floating algae will disappear, other benefits you’ll enjoy will be clearer water, no smells, healthier fish, and beautiful plants that you chose and did not just show up in your pond uninvited. Call the pond professionals at FSA&L today for a consultation on what your pond needs to upgrade your pond filtration as well as recommendations for the type of plants that will benefit your backyard pond, and non-chemical pond treatments that actually work! Call the pond experts today.(908)-277-6000

Choosing your pond builder / pond contractor is an important consideration. With the rise in the popularity of water features, ponds, water gardens, and pondless waterfalls these days, almost anybody with a wheelbarrow and a shovel will claim to be a pond installer. A good deal of the work performed by FULL SERVICE AQUATICS is rebuilding, repairing, refurbishing, renovating, or reinstalling ponds that were not installed correctly the first time by other “professional pond installers”. The emphasis of that last statement is the “RE”, in other words all these jobs are being done twice; this is very costly and time consuming for the pond owner. Clearly, there is much more to building a successful pond that digging a hole and lining it….

So, how can you be sure to have your pond done right the first time? Here are some tips, from the contractor side, as to what a potential pond customer should be looking for. Choose your pond installer / pond contractor carefully so you can really get what you looking for. Here are some things to consider.

• Does your contractor have experience installing ponds or will your property be an experiment ground? How long have they been in business? Some previous experience (3-4 years) should be a requirement; a lot of experience (5+ years) should be given preference.
• Are they dedicated full-time pond installation specialists? Many “installers” out there install on a part-time or second job basis, or are hobbyists making some extra cash on the weekend. They talk the talk, but are they in the trenches everyday? Can they provide you pond services and maintenance, or if you have a problem and need immediate attention, do you have to wait until they get out of their “real job”, or until the weekend?
• Does your pond contractor have any type of certification or education in the services they are offering you? Have they continued educated themselves in the quickly changing “water services” industry.
• Do they offer follow-up pond services after they perform a water garden installation? Some installers just install and disappear leaving you to fend for yourself and turn to another company for services and information.
• Does your water garden installer have a portfolio, pictures, website, or videos of pond installations they personally have performed of are they handing you some stock photos of a pond someone else constructed? FULL SERVICE AQUATICS has come across representations of ponds that we have installed on other companies’ websites, brochures, and business cards. FULL SERVICE AQUATICS offers no other photos or videos than what we have personally installed, who knows maybe you have fallen in love with a pond installation by FSA and now you’re hiring another company to try to install it!
• Can your pond installer offer references or testimonials? Any contractor who works well should have a list of customers to call or a testimonials page on their website.
• Does your pond contractor have an in-depth knowledge on all aspects of ponds; such as: pond design, pond construction, fish, aquatic plants, maintenance and upkeep, pumps and filtration, rockwork, water chemistry? Look for a complete package in your contractor hopping from one source to another will be confusing and tiring!
• Is your pond builder easily accessible via phone, email, and website? Make sure you have access to your installer.
• Is your New Jersey pond contractor licensed, insured, and registered? New Jersey requires NJ pond builders/NJ pond installers/NJ pond contractors to have a valid home improvement contractors license and insurance.
• Do you like your pond builder? Perhaps sounds petty but try to make sure you like your pond guy. Ponds are long term installations and to have a good relationship with a good pond guy can be of great value at the times that you really need it.

These are a few considerations for the pond customer pondering a water garden installation. Add these to the questions you have already formulated. Take your time in choosing, remember not to be scared away by pricing ALL ponds can be easily modified to fit most budgets.

OR, save a lot of time and trouble and let FULL SERVICE AQUATICS take care of your pond, water garden, pondless waterfall, waterfall, or water feature installation from start to finish. Call FSA at (908) 277-6000 for your free consultation with a dedicated pond specialist today!

Nearly all ponds installed by FSA&L pond contractors of New Jersey are designed and installed to run all year. You have a beautiful water feature, enjoy it year round! Winter scenes with snow and ice on the pond can be quite dramatic. We do recommend a winterization pond service during October-November. We also recommend installing a pond aerator or some type of floating pond de-icer in your pond to maintain an open water area in the event of icing. During the winter months in the New Jersey area there are times when the temperatures can drop below freezing and stay there for a period of time, this is when we ask our customers to use their best judgment and keep a close eye on your pond to make sure the system keeps running as it should be. NJ pond installations by FSA&L, especially larger ponds, may develop ice on the surface or around the edges; this is OK and normal. The waterfalls area under normal conditions should not freeze over, although there may be areas of ice. The area where the waterfall enters into the body of the pond will usually remain open because of the water activity, and the area in front of the skimmer box should remain open because of the water activity as well. Ponds in New Jersey can otherwise run safely through the winter. Your koi and pond fish should not be fed during the winter months. Pond maintenance services in New Jersey are recommended year round. Visit our pond services page for a complete description of recommended pond maintenance, water garden maintenance, water feature maintenance that the New Jersey pond owner should follow.

Nobody likes a leaky pond, especially us. But, before calling FSA&L to “find your leak” which can be a bit of a service bill, I’d like to share with you our method of finding a leak which you can follow OR give us, the pros at FSA&L, a call and we will take care of the issue for you. Most leaks occur in the waterfalls or in the connections within the system. OUR METHOD: turn off your system, add an aerator to oxygenate the water, fill your pond to its highest point and mark the area clearly in at least (3) different areas, monitor your water level daily to determine if the water level IN the pond is dropping when the waterfalls is NOT flowing. If the water level drops while the waterfalls is not flowing continue to monitor the water level until it has stopped dropping and holds its level for 48 hours WITHOUT any rain. Once the water level has stopped dropping and holds its level for the required 48 hours you can begin to look for the leak along the water line because that is where the leak MUST be. On the other hand, if the water level does NOT drop while the waterfalls are not flowing then the problem is in the falls or plumbing lines. To determine this, start the falls and carefully inspect the sides/edges of the falls for leaks, often times just a settled area of liner, but it could be as simple as a leaf jam, or a rock that came out of place. If it is determined that it is not in the falls or the pond then the plumbing must be examined to look for loose connections or fittings, or clogged lines. If our proven processes do not work, then call the professionals at FSA&L we cannot be beat by any leak!!

Are your fish suddenly disappearing? The problem is probably a predator of some type. The common predators are the Great Blue Heron, Egrets, and Raccoons. Cats bothering fish ponds is without a doubt a “fish tale”, most of our New Jersey pond installation owners have cats or dogs and I have no problems to report relating to cats or dogs. My cat Pippin (or EL PIPPINO, as he likes to be called) loves our pond and spends a great deal of time lounging by it actually watching the fish! For the New Jersey pond owner the most likely culprit for predation will be the Great Blue Heron, hands down! If a raccoon is hunting at your New Jersey water feature, your water feature installation was not built properly for beginners and you should consult with a pond expert from FSA&L to fix the problem. It is easy to tell if a raccoon has hunted your pond, because the raccoon hunts and eats right on site. Raccoons do not eat the entire fish, usually leaving the head behind for you to easily discover, they tend to be a bit noisy also they will NOT go into a properly constructed water feature, and usually leave some sort of prints behind which are easilyrecognizable. Fortunately, the raccoon is a somewhat lazy animal and in New Jersey a very well fed animal; preferring to feast on your garbage can contents instead of working to get one of your fish, and in about 20 years I can only tell you of 1 actual 100% confirmed raccoon incident. The Blue Heron, Snowy Egret, and other big birds, account for the rest of fish predation, putting aside unscrupulous landscaper or water feature professionals. Their calling card is that your pond fish simply disappear because the bird takes the fish down whole and flies away with it to its rookery. There are many products on the market available to the NJ pond owner to deter herons; some are just gimmicks (like the fake heron statues), others work to a limited degree (like the “scarecrow”). The (2) approaches I like and feel work very well, without having to throw a net over your pond, which of course completely deters the Heron; is a product called the “DE-KOI”. The “DE-KOI” is simply an artificial, but very convincing, plastic koi with an anchoring device, which floats just below the surface of the pond. The idea is that the Blue Heron, who also is going to go for the easiest meal will see this non-moving koi just sitting there begging to be swallowed up, and the Heron will most likely hit that koi creating a fuss and alarming the other fish in the pond which will send them into hiding and scattering making them very difficult to catch even for the best of the herons. The DE-KOI comes in several authentic patterns and I would recommend using more than one if you are battling a heron. A New Jersey pond installation that does not offer up an easy meal will quickly lose the interest of any heron or bird of prey. The other method, which quite frankly I am borrowing from koi breeders, is to set up a perimeter around and across your pond installation using 50# test clear nylon fishing line. This is a great way to deter these large, pterodactyl-like, birds and it is not unsightly. Strategically cross the line over your pond so if the Blue Heron can get in the pond it will come up against this material which will make it difficult to maneuver going after your pond fish and koi. It also makes the bird alarmed and the great blue heron will most likely flee just because it is not comfortable. So you have placed it across your pond, now set up a line around your pond at about 18” high this also makes the bird very uncomfortable and nervous, often times afraid to approach the pond unless very hungry. I have battled the herons on my pond with great success, the time they cause the most problems for New Jersey pond and New Jersey water garden owners is Late December thru Mid-February. Surprisingly I get very few to no complaints during the rest of the year. If you’d like a baffling set-up for your NJ water feature installation call FSA&L pond experts and we sill come out and set it up for you, it is just one of our many water feature services in New Jersey that we offer the owners of NJ backyard pond installations, NJ water garden installations. Did you know Koi have teeth?

A properly built and filtered pond will not attract mosquitoes. Any pond built with an adequate filter system will have a water quality that does not appeal to mosquitoes. For mosquitoes to lay their eggs, hatch successful larvae, and reproduce; they need and search for high nutrient, low oxygen, still water; in other words stagnant water. This type of environment is excellent for mosquito larvae which is why mosquito larvae can be found in everything from uncared for birdbaths to abandoned tires that have filled with rainwater.

The pond installations performed by FSA&L have excellent pond filtration systems which create a water quality which is high in oxygen due to the beautiful waterfall designs we construct which mix large amounts of oxygen into the water. The FULL SERVICE AQUATICS pond installers in NJ also build ponds with plenty of water movement due to the pond skimmer systems we install with our pond construction packages, and our pond designs yield a very low nutrient level as well due to the biofalls filter system and the aquatic plant mix that breakdown and absorb nutrients from the water creating beautiful, clear, low nutrient water, and happy pond fish and koi. AND by the way, NO MOSQUITOES!!! In 15 years of pond construction in NJ and other parts of the country I have never once had a problem with any of our pond customers having to deal with mosquitoes due to a water garden installation performed by the backyard pond construction experts at FSA&L. Want more info call 908-277-6000 now!

If you’re the owner of a pond installation, or considering having water garden construction then you need to be aware of some of the pond maintenance procedures. New Jersey pond installers should discuss the spring cleanout as one of the bigger pond services that are to be performed. Your pond must endure 365 days of outdoor conditions, but once a year the spring cleanout should be done. Imagine if you did not maintain your yard for an entire year, well the pond is a part of that landscape and should be thoroughly cleaned annually. For the complete description of a spring cleanout service for a pond click here!

For the New Jersey backyard pond I usually recommend hardy varieties of plants, but who can resist a tropical plant or two in their pond….I can’t. I recommend hardy plants, like water lilies, because when properly cared for the hardy pond plant will come back year after year with each year producing a bigger more impressive plant. Think of tropical plants, such as tropical water lilies, as disposable and after the first freeze these plants will usually “mush” over and rot in your pond so be sure to take them out. It should be noted that, of course, there are methods of keeping tropical plants over winter but that is for another FAQ. Hardy water garden plants come in many varieties and car should be taken in choosing your plants that you are providing the environment that they will thrive in, aquatic plants are just as particular about there conditions as any other type of plant and it should not be assumed that simply because they are in water they will do well in your water garden installation. FULL SERVICE AQUATICS offers plant delivery and installation services and custom plant packages for your pond CALL TODAY (908)-277-6000, or email us and we can design your plant package for your backyard water garden.

If you are a professional koi breeder or a koi collector, call Mike Gannon at 908-277- 6000 to discuss bottom drains, if not, read on. Very often at pond installation consultations we are asked about the infamous bottom drain. On paper, or in theory, the bottom drain would seem to be a good idea, but in practice it is not a very desirable or logical piece of equipment for the typical backyard pond installation. The bottom drain can have certain applications, however; they do not apply to the water garden pond. So let’s talk about bottom drains in theory. What is it? The bottom drain is a plumbing component designed to be installed at the bottom of the pond at its lowest point. The idea is that as debris settles to the bottom of the pond it will be drawn into the drain and caught in the filter, and it will keep the bottom water of the pond circulating. Sounds good, but is it, and does it really work? My answer, after 15 years of pond installing, and after installing many bottom drains (which I not longer will do) is NO! The bottom drain does NOT work and I highly recommend NOT installing a bottom drain for your water garden installation. Before we talk about function consider this, you have a new pond being installed, the liner which is supposed to give you many years of holding water in your pond is now being cut or compromised for this plumbing fitting, not only is the liner being cut it is being cut at the very bottom lowest point of your new pond, so now if that bottom drain was not installed correctly or develops a leak as they always do, your pond will now drain down to the very bottom leaving no water in the pond. If this leak occurs while you are not at home or asleep, you may come home or wake up to your pet fish or koi collection worth thousands of dollars flopping around and dying in the bottom of your now empty pond. For a bottom drain to even have a marginal chance of operating properly the liner installation must also be an exposed liner installation without any rocks or gravel. Rocks and gravel will hinder the ability of the “settled” debris entering into your bottom drain, or your bottom drain will slowly fill with gravel and become useless. Exposed liner installations are very problematic and difficult to maintain ponds, also a major problem is that with any rainfall there is a high likelihood that your liner will get water under it and “float” the liner up, essentially turning your pond inside out, again most likely killing off your fish. As the liner gets floated up by the water pressure under it the liner then tears away from the bottom drain which is fixed in place, destroying your liner and pond. IT ONLY TAKES ONE RAIN STORM!! This is a scenario and mistake we see too often made by inexperienced pond installers, or pond installers trying to cut corners with devastating results later down the road that the pond owner is left having to deal with on their own, often the repair work almost as costly as the install. The bottom drain also draws water from the bottom of the pond which is also undesirable, in ponds as in nature water does not “flow” at the bottom, there is no current, water can actually stratify into various layers at varying temperatures which fish like and helps the pond to function like a pond. Bottom drains constantly circulate that bottom water which can actually weaken, stress, and sicken fish in the winter dormancy months, sometimes causing wipeouts.

How about maintenance? The bottom drain needs to be maintained, they are very prone to clogging with debris and leaves, the bottom drain is designed to remove particulate (very small) matter from water NOT oak leaves, maple leaves, acorns, and mulch. When the drain clogs and will not allow water to pass through, you will likely burn out your pump ($$!!), a costly problem and again one that can compromise the safety and health of your fish. The 10 times per year that your bottom drain clogs who will get in there to unclog it, you?, or is that bottom drain now costing you $90.00 a month to keep professionally unclogged.

Do you like baby fish? The bottom drain will get rid of a great majority of your fish eggs before they even get to be fertilized, so you can rely on much less fish reproduction in bottom drain ponds.

Let’s not even mention the unsightliness of a bottom drain in your pond, who wants to look into their pond and see equipment….give me fish and plants, thank you.

As a professional pond installer I cannot think of a good argument for the bottom drain to be installed in your backyard pond installation. As seen from above I can give many reasons for the bottom drain NOT to be installed. Admittedly, I have installed them many years ago at the customer’s insistence and with a great deal of warnings, and yes, problems occurred. I would not install these drains for any of my customers anymore, and do not recommend for the DIYers attempting an install either. However, as I mentioned earlier there is a place for the bottom drain and if you are a professional breeder or a koi collector call Mike Gannon to discuss further. Otherwise, avoid the bottom drain.